Hoexter’s
Hoexter’s Famous Gorgonzola Garlic Bread
An old Upper East Side staple from the 70s/80s has been revived! Hoexter’s has reopened in the old Flex Mussels space on 82nd and 3rd, and reservations are hard to come by! I dined here at 6pm on a Thursday evening, and it was bustling.
I tried the following 7 dishes, and my feelings were mixed:
Hoexter’s Famous Gorgonzola Garlic Bread ($18)
Winter Caesar ($18)
Roasted Half Chicken ($33)
Hoexter’s Double Smash Cheeseburger ($28)
Lemon Tart ($12)
Apple Crisp ($14)
Ice Cream Sundae ($16)
The highlight of the meal for me was the Gorgonzola Garlic Bread, which I believe was a a best-selling dish from the original restaurant. It is a classic Italian-style garlic bread with crisp edges and a soft center, drenched in a buttery, gorgonzola bechamel. I’ve never had anything like this, and it was special. The Winter Caesar I would not order again. It was over-dressed, and the dressing itself had a strong mayo-like flavor that I did not appreciate, but the other member of my party did not mind it. The Smash Cheeseburger was delicious, and if you prefer a thinner patty you are likely to enjoy this. I gravitate towards thicker-style burgers, so this wasn’t a dish I would come back for. The Roasted Half Chicken was tender, but the sides left something to be desired. It did not come with spaetzel as advertised, and while it came with a carrot/mushroom/onion blend, I found myself yearning for a green vegetable. The Lemon Tart was excellent and I would come back for this one dessert alone. It had a luscious, creamy lemon custard served on top of a brown butter graham cracker crumble. The Apple Crisp was nice, with a strong cinnamon flavor, but the apples could have cooked down more. The Ice Cream Sundae was pretty standard, and is nothing you need to seek out.
I loved the decor and the energy of the space, and while I wouldn’t go out of my way to come back, I would be happy to dine here again if I were looking for somewhere to eat in this neighborhood.